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LOWER LEG POCKET IMAGE REMOVED - I got it wrong and need to re-draw it. *2-11-11*

I got the leg and arm zipper drawings done.

OK, here's the V.1 test uniform made exactly according to the commercial XL pattern.  There are some obvious flaws and some much needed custom fitting.  Overall?  I am pleased with this 'first draft.'  It went quickly and fairly painlessly despite the lack of detailed directions, and it has given me both practice in some new techniques as well as shown me where some important improvements to the pattern should be done.

For the V.1 jumper the only zipper I installed was the front zipper.  The zipper placement marks on the pattern were way off, so I had to improvise the closing of the seam at the bottom of the zipper.  Not a good look, but it kept the thing from ripping apart when trying it on.  The zipper gaps in the sleeves and legs are pinned together for the photo - there was some iron on Velcro in the cuffs though.  I also forgot to press the seams open on the shoulders, so they look a little puckered.  The pockets were also so poorly matched that I figured I'd save my time and not include them in the V.1 test jumper.

Biggest surprise?  The collar and neck hole was an absolutely perfect fit.  I did have to trace out only half the collar pattern for better symmetry, but that worked out perfectly.

Changes to the fit:

• Tighten cuffs at wrist and ankles
• Lengthen torso at least 2"
• Add about 2" maybe 3" to the width of the back below the collar - keep the torso taper though for a correct look.

Changes to construction:

• Add interfacing to the collar and cuffs.  Though my fabric was a stand-in it was still the correct weight cotton twill.  The collar and cuffs just aren't stiff enough.
• Lower the shoulder sections
• Make properly mitered division strip instead of the two piece from the pattern.
• Straiten the curve of the shoulder lines.

Changes to the pattern not already mentioned:

• Totally redesign all the pockets form scratch.
• Ignore all zipper placement marks on commercial pattern - custom placement needed during construction.
  

Yeah, I ended up doing the same thing with my VOY and NEM jumpers. I went into this uniform with a very special frame of mind. One of forgiveness and as much patience as I can muster. I plan on doing at least 3 test jumpers before trying my hand at the real thing. I am actually having a blast working on this, even the inaccurate and ill-fitting commercial pattern first draft. All your posts were definitely an inspiration too, thanks for making them.

It'll probably be another 7 days or so before I have the V.2 jumper assembled for pix and another round of reworking.

BTW - That 'decorative stitch' around the bottom of the leg is not on all uniforms, though it shows up on a few lead actors' uniforms as early as season two including the captains'.

Thanks Brian!  The division stripes are strait with a mitered 90 degree corner as far as I can tell.  Give me a few days.  I am constructing my second test jumper with my revised pattern and I will 'tell all' with my conclusions.  I adjusted my pattern to straiten out that division stripe.  I have all but scrapped the commercial pattern's pockets, as they seem to be too inaccurate to use and should be fit to the wearer.  I am going to get the body, shoulders, cuffs and collar right then use the test jumper (when I get it all worked out) to draft the pockets.

I must say I am glad to have the commercial pattern.  It has given me a fantastic place to jump into this uniform, but it is certainly not a finely polished product that works perfectly from the envelope.

You can see below (from the a first season publicity shot) that not every one's uniform has the same size pockets, or the same stitching, or the same zipper placement.  Look at the right arm pocket, it is a different height from the point of the division stripe on the shoulder for nearly every uniform.  Heck, Hoshi's uniform only has one waist belt!  Not to mention in season two archers zipper on his right chest pocket is at an angle.  These things were obviously highly customized to each lead actor's build, so I am doing the same for my uniform.



Next set of drawings will cover the hip pockets and the right side tool loop.  I will also update the collar pattern.  From what I can tell it needs to have a less graded curve to the open end (top collar in drawing below.)  It should have more of a rounded off corner (bottom collar in drawing below - sorry for the crude drawing, I made it at work where the only drafting tool I have is MS Paint.)